XT Appliances · Warren
Dryer runs but won't heat
Most often a blocked vent that overheated the dryer and blew the thermal fuse, or on an electric dryer a burned-out heating element.
A dryer makes heat in one of two ways. An electric dryer runs 240 volts through a coiled heating element. A gas dryer heats a glow igniter until it's hot enough, then the gas valve opens and the burner lights. Either way, the blower pulls that heat through the drum and pushes the damp air out the vent. If the drum turns but the air comes out cold, the motor and belt are doing their job and the fault is in the heat path.
Start with the vent
The vent comes first on most no-heat calls, even when the part that failed is something else. Lint packed in the hose or behind the outside flap traps heat inside the dryer. The thermal fuse is a one-time safety that opens when the dryer overheats, and on an electric dryer the element can burn out the same way. A thermal fuse almost never blows on its own. Put in a new one without clearing the vent and it blows again. Lint in the vent is also a fire risk, so if drying got slower for weeks before the heat quit, the vent needs clearing before anything else.
Electric or gas
On an electric dryer, the heating element is the part that most often opens. If the element and fuse both test good and the heat is weak or gone, the power is next. The dryer needs both halves of its double breaker. When one half trips, or a loose screw burns the terminal block where the cord connects at the back, the dryer keeps tumbling on half the power and the element barely warms. Scorching at the plug or outlet points the same way.
A gas dryer has no element, and one observation splits its heat parts. If the igniter never glows, the igniter has usually failed (the flame sensor beside it can also keep it dark). If it glows bright, then shuts off with no flame, the igniter did its job and the gas valve coils didn't open the valve. If you smell gas, leave the house and call your gas company from outside. Don't switch lights or appliances on or off.
On the visit, our technician checks the airflow at the outside vent first, then tests the heat circuit for your type of dryer along with the power coming in, so the failed part gets replaced and the reason it failed gets fixed with it.
What it usually turns out to be
- Cleaning or upkeepBlocked vent or lint screenPacked lint traps heat inside the dryer until a safety part cuts it off. If the outside flap barely moves while the dryer runs, start here.
- PartThermal fuseA one-time safety that opens when the dryer overheats, almost always because the vent is blocked. It doesn't reset, and a new one blows again if the vent stays packed.
- PartHeating element (electric only)The coil burns through, so the drum keeps tumbling while the air blows cold. It's the most common no-heat part on an electric dryer, and a blocked vent is often what burned it out.
- PartGas igniter or valve coils (gas only)If the igniter never glows, the igniter has usually failed. If it glows bright and shuts off with no flame, the igniter is fine and the gas valve coils aren't opening the valve.
- PartBurnt terminal block or half a breaker (electric only)An electric dryer needs both halves of its double breaker. Lose one to a tripped half or a burnt connection where the cord meets the dryer, and it tumbles with weak heat or none.
Try this first
- Clean the lint screen.
- Check the vent hose behind the dryer for kinks and packed lint.
- With the dryer running, go outside and check that the vent flap opens and blows strong, warm air.
- Check the breaker. Electric dryers use a double breaker, and one half can trip.
Stop using it and call now if
- A burning smell, or the top is too hot to touch.
- Gas smell from a gas dryer.
- Scorch marks or melting at the plug or the outlet behind the dryer.
Other dryer problems
- Dryer takes too long to dry
- Dryer squealing, thumping or grinding
- Dryer drum won't turn
- Dryer won't start
Or go back to dryer repair in Warren.